Ephesus Travel Guide

Ephesus sits just outside the town of Selcuk, about 20 minutes by road from the cruise port of Kusadasi and roughly an hour from Izmir airport. It was one of the largest cities of the Roman east, a port with its own theatre, library, baths and marble streets. The sea has since retreated several kilometres, which is part of why so much of the city survived.

Why visit Ephesus

Few ancient sites let you walk a whole city street from top to bottom. At Ephesus you enter near the upper gate, walk down Curetes Street past fountains, temples and public toilets, and arrive at the Library of Celsus, whose rebuilt two-storey front is the best-known image of the site. A few steps further is the Great Theatre, which seated around 25,000 people. The Terrace Houses, covered by a modern roof, show how the rich lived: mosaic floors and painted walls still in place.

Ephesus is also a Christian pilgrimage site. Paul lived and preached here, the letter to the Ephesians was addressed to its church, and tradition places the last years of the Virgin Mary in a small house on the hill above the city. The Basilica of St John in Selcuk stands over what is believed to be the apostle's tomb.

How much time you need

The ancient city itself takes 2 to 3 hours with a guide, a little more if you add the Terrace Houses, which have a separate ticket. A full day usually includes the House of the Virgin Mary, the single column left of the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders), the Basilica of St John and the Ephesus Museum in Selcuk. Our private Ephesus highlights tour covers this in one day. Stay two days if you want Sirince village, Pamukkale or the other ancient cities nearby: Priene, Miletus and Didyma.

Best time to visit

April, May, late September and October are the pleasant months. July and August often pass 35°C and there is very little shade on the marble, so be at the gate when it opens or go in the late afternoon. Cruise ships usually bring the biggest groups between mid-morning and early afternoon; if you are not on a ship, avoid those hours. Winter is mild and green, often rainy, and nearly empty.

Getting there from Istanbul

The quickest way is a flight to Izmir (ADB), about 1 hour 10 minutes, followed by a drive of roughly an hour to Selcuk. Our Ephesus day trip from Istanbul with flights handles both flights and the guide in a single day. By road, Istanbul to Selcuk is around 550 km; with the newer motorway and the Osmangazi Bridge it takes about 6 to 7 hours. Cruise passengers arrive at Kusadasi port, and our private Ephesus shore excursion from Kusadasi is timed around the ship.

Top experiences

• Walking Curetes Street down to the Library of Celsus in the early light.
• The Terrace Houses, with frescoes and mosaics still inside the rooms.
• The Great Theatre, where the riot against Paul described in Acts took place.
• The House of the Virgin Mary on Bulbul Mountain.
• Sirince, a hill village known for fruit wines and old stone houses.
• The Ephesus Museum in Selcuk, home to the two Artemis statues.
• An evening visit to the ruins, when night openings are running.

Where to stay

Selcuk is closest to the ruins, small and walkable, with family-run hotels. Kusadasi is a bigger resort town with the port, beaches and more restaurants. Sirince suits a quiet night in the hills. Izmir works if you want a large city and flights, about an hour away. Browse our Ephesus and Kusadasi hotels.

What to eat

The Aegean kitchen is built on olive oil and greens. Try zeytinyagli dishes (vegetables cooked in olive oil and served cold), wild herbs, grilled fish in Kusadasi and cop sis, small lamb skewers that Selcuk is known for. In Sirince, taste the fruit wines, though some are quite sweet. In Izmir, look for boyoz pastry and kumru sandwiches.

Practical tips

• Bring a hat, water and sunscreen from April onward; there are few shaded areas.
• Wear shoes with grip. The marble paving is polished smooth and slippery.
• The Terrace Houses and the Ephesus Museum have their own tickets.
• A licensed guide makes a real difference here. The signs are brief, and the stories behind the buildings are the best part.

Add Pamukkale with our 2-day Ephesus and Pamukkale private tour, or see all our Ephesus tours.