Ankara Travel Guide

Ankara became the capital of the new Turkish Republic in 1923, when it was a small town on a hill. Today it is the country's second-largest city, a place of ministries, universities and wide boulevards. Few travellers plan a long stay, but a day here explains a lot about modern Turkey and about Anatolia's ancient past.

Why visit Ankara

Two places make the trip worthwhile. Anitkabir, the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Republic, is a vast stone complex on a hill with a museum on the independence war. It is a place of real emotion for Turks, and the ceremonial guard adds to the atmosphere. The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, in a restored Ottoman covered market and inn, walks you through Anatolia from the Palaeolithic to the Romans: Catalhoyuk wall paintings, Hittite reliefs, Phrygian bronzes and Urartian metalwork. It is one of the best collections of its kind anywhere.

How much time you need

One day is enough for Anitkabir, the museum and the citadel. Many people see Ankara as a stop between Istanbul and Cappadocia, as on our 7-day Turkey tour package.

Best time to visit

Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) are pleasant. Summers are hot and dry but less humid than Istanbul. Winters are cold, with snow some years.

Getting there from Istanbul

The high-speed train connects Istanbul with Ankara in about 4.5 hours, city centre to city centre, and is usually the easiest option. Flights take roughly 1 hour 10 minutes, but Esenboga airport is about 30 km from the centre. By road it is around 450 km.

Top experiences

• Anitkabir and its museum on the War of Independence.
• The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.
• The Ankara citadel, with old houses and views across the city.
• Hamamonu, a restored Ottoman neighbourhood with cafes and craft shops.
• The Temple of Augustus, whose walls carry the best-preserved copy of the emperor's own account of his achievements, and the Roman baths.
• On the way to Cappadocia, Lake Tuz, a shallow salt lake that turns white in summer.

Where to stay

Ulus and the area around the citadel are close to the museums. Kizilay and Cankaya have more modern hotels, restaurants and nightlife.

What to eat

Try Ankara tava (lamb and orzo baked in a pan), doner at one of the old Ulus restaurants, and Ankara simit, which locals insist is crisper than Istanbul's.

Practical tips

• Anitkabir has security checks at the entrance; allow extra time.
• Behave quietly at the mausoleum; it is a national memorial.
• Traffic in the centre is heavy at rush hour.

Ankara is part of routes such as our 9-day Turkey tour package and the 12-day Best of Turkey private tour. See all Ankara tours.